Black and tan

I'm not a fan of the drink, but apparently this combination of neutral colors appeals to me - both of my completed projects from this weekend were comprised of these colors.

First up, a DKNY dress. I started this a couple weeks ago and finally finished it (almost) today.

Vogue 1027

It's unhemmed here, I still need to let it hang overnight because the skirt is cut on the bias.

Fabric
Anne Klein poly/lycra jersey purchased a few weeks ago at the PacFab Outlet.

Notes on construction/alterations
Most of the reviews for this dress on Pattern Review suggest sizing down. I made a muslin of the bodice, and chose a size 6 for the dress. Just like my recent experience with the McCalls dress, it doesn't make sense given their measurement charts, but it works.

I finished the neckline and the armholes with fold-over elastic, my first time using this stuff. I was inspired by Cidell's use of FOE on this knit dress. Let's just say, it was a little bit stressful! The trick is stretching it the right amount while you are sewing. I tested it on a piece of scrap fabric, but apparently that wasn't enough practice, because when I sewed it on the bodice, the whole thing was wavy and loose - I didn't pull it taut enough during sewing. Good thing I had enough fabric leftover! I cut a new bodice and was successful the second time around.

If you follow the pattern directions, the wrong side of the belt ties will show (they have you just turn under the raw edges of the ties and stitch). Since I didn't want the wrong side of my fabric to show, here's how I made the belt:

First I stitched the back band (piece 5) and the two tie ends (piece 4) together. I applied fusible interfacing to the points that would be clipped, marked with a large circle on the pattern piece.

I turned the belt right sides together and stitched the tie ends up to the point of reinforcement. Then I clipped the seam allowance right up to that point.

This is what it looks like when you turn everything right side out. Here I'm holding the seam allowance that will be sewn into the waist seam.



A detail that goes unnoticed until you read the directions - the "belt" is sewn into the waist seam and kind of hangs free. The two ends are tied in the front.

I omitted the elastic in the waistband. Also, I noticed that a few other people who made this pattern omitted the pockets from the skirt but I included them.

Conclusion
I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. Just need to hem it now. I feel like the current length is a little bit dowdy on me. I think I'll try hemming it so it's just below the knee.

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On Saturday, I made another Hot Patterns Once, Twice, Three Times a T-Shirt-turned-dress (here's version 1).

This was another one of those projects sewn in a rushed, frenetic pace so I could wear it that night. Yes, the hem is totally wavy, and I wore it out like that! I could tell it was happening while I was sewing the hem, but I didn't have time fuss with everything to get it better. Besides, no one can see your hem when you're sitting at a dinner table. I'll fix it later.



Fabric
Tan modal rayon/lycra jersey, black sheer knit for contrast.

Notes on construction/alterations
I altered the neckline for a more open, rounded neckline. I did the same thing on the back too - there is no "front" or "back" on this dress, both sides are identical. It's hard to see in the picture, but I used the twisted neckband binding technique again.

I also took a bit of the width out of the bodice so the sleeves are not as dropped as the original.


This was completely unintentional, but when I finished, the constrast sleeve bands reminded me of the New England Patriots jersey. Kind of a sporty look.



Conclusion
I like this dress more than my previous version. I think because the neckline is more open. I'm still interested in doing this in a woven. Soon, I hope!